The Leelanau Peninsula is the “little finger” of Michigan’s mitten, a narrow point of land between Lake Michigan and Grand Traverse Bay just northwest of Traverse City. Its name, which locals say means “delight of life,” fits: it packs wineries, orchards, sandy beaches, small harbor towns, a historic lighthouse and the northern half of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore into a place you can drive end to end in a day, though you will want longer.
What is cool about this area from my perspective is how you really do feel like you are in a Midwest Napa Valley. You have rolling hills, roughly two dozen wineries, and breathtaking views from some of them overlooking Lake Michigan and the Grand Traverse Bay. There is no other place like this in the Midwest.
This guide covers what to see and do on the Leelanau Peninsula, how the scenic M-22 loop works, which towns are worth a stop, and how to plan a day trip or a long weekend. For the wider region, see our Northern Michigan guide and our Traverse City guide.
Leelanau Peninsula at a Glance
| Best for | Wine tasting, scenic drives, lighthouses, beaches, biking, small-town browsing and a Sleeping Bear Dunes base |
|---|---|
| Don’t miss | The M-22 loop; Fishtown in Leland; the Grand Traverse Lighthouse in Leelanau State Park; the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail |
| Main towns | Leland, Glen Arbor, Suttons Bay, Northport, Lake Leelanau, Omena and Empire |
| Getting there | From Traverse City on M-22 (around the peninsula), M-72 (across the south) and M-204 (to Lake Leelanau) |
| Best seasons | Summer for beaches and the Manitou ferry; fall for color and wine harvest; winter for quiet and cross-country skiing |
| Passes | Recreation Passport for Leelanau State Park; a National Park Service pass for Sleeping Bear Dunes |
How the Peninsula Is Laid Out
The Leelanau Peninsula points north into Lake Michigan, with the main lake on the west and the West Arm of Grand Traverse Bay on the east. The main road is M-22, which hugs the western shoreline from Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore through Leland up to Northport, then turns south and follows the eastern shoreline through Omena and Suttons Bay back to Traverse City. M-72 crosses the southern part of the peninsula, and M-204 links Leland to Lake Leelanau.
Along the way, M-22 passes through the hamlets of Empire, Glen Arbor, Leland, Northport, Omena and Suttons Bay, with restaurants, wineries and galleries between them. The peninsula also holds inland lakes, including Lake Leelanau, Glen Lake and Lime Lake. It is still home to the Grand Traverse Band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians, whose reservation is near the town of Peshawbestown.
The Best Things to Do on the Leelanau Peninsula
Drive M-22
M-22 is the signature experience here, a winding two-lane road that follows the shoreline past orchards, dunes, small harbors and farm stands. You can drive the full peninsula loop from Traverse City and back in a day with stops, but the best approach is to choose three or four stops and let the rest be scenery. Fall color weekends are especially popular, so start early and plan for slower traffic.
The Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail
The Leelanau Peninsula is one of Michigan’s five American Viticultural Areas, and its wine trail is divided into three mini-trails (the Sleeping Bear Loop, the Northern Loop and the Grand Traverse Bay Loop) so you can tackle it in pieces. Tour operators and local guides put the number of wineries at roughly two dozen, though the count shifts as tasting rooms open and close, so check the trail’s own website for the current member list. The area also has breweries, cideries and a distillery, particularly around Suttons Bay and Lake Leelanau.
Tip: If you are tasting, line up a designated driver or book a guided tour.
Leelanau State Park and the Grand Traverse Lighthouse
At the very tip of the peninsula, Leelanau State Park covers about 1,300 acres of woods and Lake Michigan shoreline. Its centerpiece is the Grand Traverse Lighthouse, built in 1858 and out of operation since 1972, which now serves as a museum. Visitors can tour the refurbished rooms and the fog signal building and climb the tower for a panoramic view. The park also has 8.5 miles of hiking trails and beaches: rocky near the lighthouse and sandy to the west along Cathead Bay. A state park campground sits near the lighthouse grounds.
Good to know: Leelanau State Park requires a Recreation Passport for vehicle entry. The lighthouse museum has its own tour hours and fee, so confirm both before you go.
Fishtown and the Manitou Islands
On the western shore, Leland’s Fishtown is a collection of weathered fishing shanties and smokehouses along the Leland River. It is described by the Leelanau Conservancy as one of the state’s few working commercial fishing villages. From the Fishtown docks, the Manitou Island Transit ferry carries visitors to North and South Manitou Islands, part of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. The National Park Service says the ride usually takes about 1.5 hours each way, reservations are required and pets are not allowed on the islands. Day and camping trips run daily from June through August.
In late summer and early fall, you can also watch salmon climb the 12-foot dam on the Leland River near Fishtown.
Read more: Our Leland guide →
Sleeping Bear Dunes on the Leelanau Side
The southern part of the peninsula is home to a large share of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. The Dune Climb, the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive and the paved Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail are the big draws, along with Glen Haven and Empire Beach. The lakeshore is a National Park Service site, so the Michigan Recreation Passport does not apply there.
Read more: Our Glen Arbor guide →
Beaches, Lakes and Natural Areas
Beyond the state park, the peninsula has Lake Michigan beaches, swimming on inland lakes and public natural areas such as the Leelanau Conservancy’s Clay Cliffs Natural Area, which protects about 1,700 feet of shoreline on both Lake Leelanau and Lake Michigan. Suttons Bay has a marina park on the bay.
Biking the Leelanau Trail
The Leelanau Trail follows a former railroad corridor for 17 miles between Traverse City and Suttons Bay, passing farms and vineyards. It is flat and paved, which makes it a good option for families and for a wine-stop ride.
Small Towns Worth a Stop
- Leland: Fishtown, galleries, shops and the Manitou ferry.
- Suttons Bay: A walkable downtown with shops and galleries, a marina park and several wineries, a brewery and a cidery nearby.
- Northport: A harbor town near the end of the peninsula, a short drive from Leelanau State Park.
- Lake Leelanau: A village on the narrows between North and South Lake Leelanau, with several tasting rooms and a distillery.
- Glen Arbor: The gateway to Sleeping Bear Dunes, between Lake Michigan and Glen Lake.
Leelanau Events
The peninsula hosts seasonal festivals, including the Suttons Bay Art Festival, Northport Lighthouse Days, the Leland Wine Festival and an M-22 triathlon. Dates change each year, so check local event calendars before you plan around them.
Farms, Orchards and Cherries
The peninsula is cherry and orchard country, with farm stands, u-pick farms and farm markets operating in season. Looking for berries? See our statewide guide to u-pick blueberry farms in Michigan.
Sample Leelanau Itineraries
These plans are built around the places above. Check hours and seasonal schedules before you go.
One Day Around the Peninsula (From Traverse City)
- Morning: Take M-22 north along the east shore through Suttons Bay, with a winery stop or two.
- Midday: Visit Northport and the Grand Traverse Lighthouse in Leelanau State Park.
- Afternoon: Follow M-22 south along Lake Michigan to Leland and Fishtown.
- Evening: Continue to Glen Arbor, or return to Traverse City on M-22 or M-72.
A Long Weekend (Three Days)
- Day 1: Suttons Bay, wine trail stops and the Leelanau Trail.
- Day 2: Northport, Leelanau State Park and the lighthouse, then Leland.
- Day 3: The Dune Climb and the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, with a stop at Empire Beach.
A Manitou Island Day Trip
- Morning: Take the ferry from Fishtown to South Manitou Island. Reserve ahead.
- Midday: Visit the lighthouse and hike the trails. Pack food and water, since services on the island are limited.
- Afternoon: Return to Leland and walk Fishtown. A South Manitou day trip takes about seven hours in all.
If It Rains
The Grand Traverse Lighthouse Museum, winery tasting rooms, galleries and shops in Suttons Bay and Leland, and the cideries and breweries around the peninsula are good rainy-day options. Check ferry schedules, since weather can affect crossings.
When to Go: A Season-by-Season Planner
| Season | What’s happening | Planning notes |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | Orchard blossoms; quieter roads and trails | Water is cold; some seasonal sites are still opening |
| Summer | Beaches, festivals, the Manitou ferry (daily June to August) and farm stands | Busiest season; book lodging and ferry reservations early |
| Fall | Fall color on M-22; wine harvest; salmon run at Leland | Weekend traffic is heavy on M-22 |
| Winter | Cross-country skiing and quiet shorelines; Leelanau State Park trails | Many seasonal attractions are closed |
Leelanau Parks and Passes
| Place | Near | System | What you need |
|---|---|---|---|
| Leelanau State Park | Northport | Michigan state park | Recreation Passport |
| Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore | Glen Arbor and Empire | National Park Service | NPS vehicle pass (not the Recreation Passport) |
| Manitou Islands | Leland | National Park Service | Ferry reservation; park entrance fee applies |
| Clay Cliffs Natural Area | Leland area | Leelanau Conservancy preserve | Check the Conservancy’s rules |
About the Recreation Passport: It grants vehicle entry to all 103 Michigan state parks and recreation areas. For 2026, the Michigan DNR lists the passport at $15 for Michigan-registered vehicles when added during license plate renewal. Out-of-state vehicles pay $42 for an annual pass or $12 for a day pass. You do not need one if you arrive on foot or by bicycle. Prices can change, so confirm on the Michigan DNR website.
Getting to and Around the Leelanau Peninsula
- By road: From Traverse City, M-22 runs north along the east shore to Northport and south along the west shore. M-72 crosses the peninsula’s southern end toward Empire, and M-204 links Leland to Lake Leelanau.
- By air: Cherry Capital Airport (TVC) in Traverse City is the nearest major airport.
- By bike: The 17-mile Leelanau Trail connects Traverse City and Suttons Bay, and the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail covers the Glen Arbor and Empire area.
- Transit: Public transit is limited; there is an advance-reservation, curb-to-curb service in rural Leelanau and Grand Traverse counties. A car is the easiest way to see the peninsula.
Practical Tips
- Allow extra time: M-22 is two lanes with scenic stops, and fall weekends are slow.
- Book ferries and lodging early: Manitou ferry reservations are required, and summer fills up.
- Drink responsibly: Use a designated driver, shuttle or guided tour for tasting.
- Leave pets behind for the islands: Pets are not allowed on the Manitou Islands.
Beach and Water Safety
The National Weather Service and Michigan Sea Grant warn that rip currents and structural currents near piers and breakwalls can be dangerous on the Great Lakes. Check the National Weather Service’s Great Lakes beach hazard forecast before you swim, and stay out of the water near piers and harbor mouths in rough surf. At Sleeping Bear, remember that climbing back up from the lake is much harder than going down. If you are caught in a rip current, do not fight it. Swim parallel to the shore until you are free.
Leelanau Peninsula FAQ
Where is the Leelanau Peninsula?
It is the “little finger” of Michigan’s mitten, northwest of Traverse City, between Lake Michigan and the West Arm of Grand Traverse Bay.
How long does it take to drive around the Leelanau Peninsula?
You can drive the M-22 loop in a day with stops, but a long weekend lets you slow down. Plan extra time in fall and on summer weekends.
What is the Leelanau Peninsula known for?
It is known for wine, the scenic M-22 drive, Fishtown in Leland, the Grand Traverse Lighthouse, cherry orchards and Sleeping Bear Dunes.
How many wineries are on the Leelanau Peninsula?
Local sources cite roughly two dozen on the wine trail, though the number changes. Check the trail’s website for the current list.
How do I get to the Manitou Islands?
The Manitou Island Transit ferry runs from Fishtown in Leland. The trip takes about 1.5 hours each way, reservations are required and pets are not allowed.
Do I need a pass for Leelanau State Park?
Yes. A Recreation Passport is required for vehicle entry.
Is the Leelanau Peninsula part of Traverse City?
No. Traverse City sits at the base of the peninsula, in Grand Traverse County. The peninsula itself is in Leelanau County.
What is the best time to visit the Leelanau Peninsula?
Summer is best for beaches and the ferry, fall for color and wine, and spring for orchard blossoms.
Keep Planning
Sources and Further Reading
We build these guides from official and primary sources wherever possible. Details like hours, prices and festival dates change, so confirm them with the sources below before you go.